Musings on my travels along the coast through Blombos

Recently, I had the opportunity to take a private group on a journey along the southern Cape coast, travelling from the Western Cape towards the Eastern Cape. One of the places we visited was Blombos, where we were given a private tour of the museum.

It was a fascinating experience, not simply because of what has been discovered there, but because it made me think about how we tell the history of this part of the country.

Most people associate the Eastern Cape with a much more recent past. The Xhosa kingdoms, the arrival of the 1820 Settlers, the Frontier Wars and the long, complicated encounters between African societies and colonial expansion. Those are the stories I spend much of my time telling.

But travelling along this coast is a reminder that there is another history here, one that stretches back far beyond anything recorded in a book or remembered in an oral tradition.

Long before the first farmers arrived. Long before the Xhosa kingdoms. Long before Europeans appeared on these shores, people were already living here.

And places such as Blombos are helping us understand something about them.

The archaeological record at Blombos Cave stretches back to around 100,000 years ago. What makes the site particularly important, however, are some of the discoveries associated with people living there tens of thousands of years later.

Archaeologists have found finely made stone tools, carefully shaped bone implements, pieces of ochre that had been deliberately engraved, and marine shells that were pierced and apparently worn as beads.

Each discovery tells us something different.

This is a longer reflection, best read when you have a few minutes to settle in!

The stone tools speak of skill and technology. The bone tools required careful selection and shaping. The shell beads suggest that people were making and wearing objects that served some purpose beyond the immediate business of finding food or making a shelter.

Then there is the ochre.

One of the most remarkable finds is a piece of silcrete on which someone drew a cross-hatched pattern using an ochre crayon around 73,000 years ago. There are also pieces of ochre from the site that were deliberately engraved.

Of course, the difficulty with archaeology is that we cannot simply ask what these markings meant. We do not know whether they represented an idea, an identity, a message or something else entirely. There is always a temptation to fill in the gaps and create a story around an object, but sometimes the most honest answer is simply that we do not know.

What we do know is that somebody made those marks deliberately.

And that person was part of a community living on this coast at a time when the world looked very different.

The people who occupied this region were hunter-gatherers, although that description can sometimes lead us to imagine a rather vague collection of people wandering through an empty wilderness. The archaeological evidence suggests something far more interesting.

These were communities with accumulated knowledge and skills. They knew how to work stone and bone, how to exploit the resources available to them and how to make use of the coast. At Blombos, the remains of shellfish and other food sources give us some indication of what people were eating, although, as is always the case with archaeology, much of what was once part of their daily lives has simply disappeared.

Wood, plants, clothing, baskets and other organic materials rarely survive for tens of thousands of years. What we find is only a fraction of what was once there.

That is worth remembering when we look at an archaeological display.

A stone tool or a shell bead may seem like a small thing, but it is often all that remains of a much larger human world. Somewhere behind every object is a person who made it, used it, lost it or left it behind.

The story also becomes more interesting when we consider the world in which these people were living.

The southern Cape was going through significant environmental changes. During colder periods, large quantities of water were locked up in ice sheets elsewhere in the world and sea levels fell. At times, the coastline was much further out than it is today.

For the people living here, that was not some distant geological event. It changed the world around them. Areas that are now beneath the sea were once dry land, while the availability of plants, animals and coastal resources would have shifted as the climate changed.

The people whose traces we find in places such as Blombos were therefore living through a world that did not remain the same from generation to generation.

That is one of the things that makes the archaeology of this region so compelling. It is not simply a story about a single group of people occupying a cave. It is part of a much longer record of human beings living through changing conditions over an extraordinary span of time.

Blombos is not alone, either.

Along the southern Cape coast and further east are a number of important archaeological sites that are gradually helping researchers build a more detailed picture of early human life in this part of the world. Klasies River, for example, has produced evidence of human occupation going back well over 100,000 years and is internationally important for what it has revealed about early modern humans.

Taken together, these sites are changing the way we think about the distant human past. For me, however, the most interesting part of the story is the people themselves. We have no names for them. We do not know what language they spoke. We do not know what they called this coastline, what stories they told around their fires or what they thought when they looked out towards the sea. We can only work with the fragments they left behind. A tool. A bone. A shell. A piece of ochre with marks still visible after more than 70,000 years.

From those fragments, archaeologists are slowly reconstructing something of their lives.

And that brings us back to why this stretch of coast matters. When we talk about the history of the Eastern Cape, we are usually dealing with people whose names we know, events that were recorded and places that can still be identified. We can follow the movements of armies, read letters and government reports, and stand at the sites where particular events took place.

The deeper history is different.

Here, the evidence is often incomplete and anonymous. There are no written accounts to guide us. Instead, the story has to be pieced together from what people left behind, often by accident and sometimes in places where those traces have survived against all the odds.

Yet the story is no less part of our history.

By the time we reach the Xhosa kingdoms and the events that would eventually lead to the Frontier Wars, people had already been living in this part of southern Africa for thousands upon thousands of years.

That is what struck me as we travelled along this coast.

The history I normally tell is, in the context of the human story, remarkably recent and there is something rather humbling about that.

We can spend hours discussing a battle that took place 180 years ago or a settlement established two centuries ago. Yet just a few hours further along the coast, archaeologists are uncovering traces of people who lived here tens of thousands of years before any of those events were even imaginable.

And perhaps that is what I took away from our visit to Blombos. Not that we have suddenly solved the mystery of who these people were. Far from it.

In many ways, the discoveries leave us with more questions. But they remind us that the story of this part of South Africa did not begin when someone arrived and started writing it down. It had already been unfolding for an almost unimaginable length of time.

And some of its earliest chapters are still waiting to be discovered.

This is possibly "oldest known drawing by human hands", discovered in Blombos Cave in South Africa. Estimated to be 73,000 years old.

Image use credits:

Map: Image copyright: Turid Hillestad Nel , Christopher Stuart Henshilwood, CC BY 2.5 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.5>, via Wikimedia Commons

Orchre By Chris S. Henshilwood – https://ndla.no/nn/subject:1:ff69c291-6374-4766-80c2-47d5840d8bbf/topic:1:79f432e3-b872-4085-9815-b123ae84269d/topic:1:e159212a-6e1f-4018-b105-413740e4d7be/resource:1:158884, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=110908714

Shell beads Blombos caves: By Chenshilwood at English Wikipedia, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9704425

Cave: Vincent Mourre / Inrap, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Painting: By Henshilwood, C.S. et al. – New York Times Sept. 12, 2018Image stripped of 3D elements, to retain 2D elements only per Commons guidelines, considered as non-creative reproduction of an ancient artifact (70,000 BP)., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=78852795